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April 20 2012

14:00

New and Awesome on Make: Projects

Make: Projects is ready and waiting for your tutorial, with open arms. Give it a try!

DIY Lanyard for USB Flash Drives

Everyone has multitudes of USB flash drives these days, but their compact size lends them perfectly to getting dropped, misplaced, flushed, damaged, or otherwise lost.

Very few USB drives come packaged with their own lanyards to help prevent such disasters, so why not make one with a few simple items?

Author: Marc Barbani

Harvesting Chemicals from a Battery

Zinc! Manganese dioxide! Inanimate carbon rods!
This tutorial shows how to take apart a spent zinc-carbon dry cell of the common household type. Besides making for an interesting object lesson in electrochemistry, taking apart a spent D-cell, for instance, allows you to salvage many materials which can be of use to amateur chemists–materials which would otherwise probably end up in a landfill. Separated from their reactive components, the leftover parts of the battery can be safely added to most municipal recycling streams.

Author: Sean Ragan

Making a Nut Tree For Your Stuffed Squirrel

My son has a series of books that feature a frightened squirrel as the main character. Yesterday, when we were wondering what to do with our afternoon, we decided to build an appropriately sized nut tree for his plush squirrel puppet toy.

This guide will demonstrate how to build a fake tree for a child’s room. Our tree was made to house a certain frightened squirrel featured in a popular book series, but this build could be adapted for any number of tree-bound lovies.

Author: Jeff

Upgraded Indestructable LED Lanterns

This guide shows how to build a rechargable LED lantern that is virtually indestructable, charges wirelessly, and is very cheap.

The original LED lantern were featured in MAKE: Magazine, issue 30. When I first saw the article, I thought that they could only be used once, as they would have to be glued shut. When I read it, I realized that they were sealed with tape, and could therefore be opened, but not before I came up with a new idea.

Author: jduffy105


00:00

For Those About To Launch, We Salute You

A project true to the series title, Weekend Projects, our latest offering, 10-Rail Model Rocket Mega-Launcher, is a true weekend build but will actually save you time in the end. Instead of launching model rockets one at a time, or trying to time multiple stations to launch simultaneously, this project is designed to launch 10 rockets from one “mega launch” switch! Once armed, you can fire the rockets individually, but there’s something extremely rewarding about watching many rockets ignite within seconds of each other.


A fairly complex circuit (most powered by a 12V sealed lead acid battery usually are), the “guts” of the circuit are visible, mounted on clear pieces of polycarbonate. This “clarity” aids in educating young model rocket enthusiasts, allowing you to trace wires and point to respective diodes. So a cubby, for example, will not only have the satisfaction of pressing a launch button, but of seeing how it works.

This project will also introduce some new components to our arsenal of Weekend Projects parts, namely the DC voltage regulator, which as the name suggests, regulates a specific output voltage, in this case 5V. Watch the video below for more tips on assembling your 10-Rail Launcher, and to see the launch in action. This project is ideal for rocket clubs and will add an amazing “wow” factor to any launch event!

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April 19 2012

14:30

Where’s The Logic In That?

The above is a modified image from page 193 of our best-selling book Make: Electronics by Charles Platt. It illustrates the 7432-series Integrated Circuit, a Quad 2-input OR gate IC, which is the centerpiece (along with a pair of 555 Timers) for Game Show Buttons, a quiz show circuit for two players. The OR gate is one of seven common logic gates, the complete list being: AND, NAND, OR, NOR, XOR, XNOR, and NOT (or as most call it, an Inverter). The OR’s output, as the name implies, is true if either gate A “or” gate B are true (or if both are true).

A B OUT 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1

There are several ways to visualize – to aid in understanding – logic gates. These can include truth tables (the OR truth table is shown here), Venn diagrams (see Wikipedia’s entry on logic gates), or my favorite the “mechanical comparison” which Platt makes on pages 187-189 of his book, visualizing the notion of logic gates with physical sliding plates on a bubblegum machine. There are also several ways to visualize the pin order of gates. Sometimes these are shown as lines from left to right through the IC, with inputs on the left and outputs on the right. But the most common, and by far the most helpful, is the technique shown above, which imposes the gates on a diagram of the IC, with inputs and outputs shown as line traces, and symbols corresponding to the type of gate.

We’ll explore one other type of logic gate in a future installment of Weekend Projects, but be sure to pick up the Make: Electronics books for further reading on logic gates, as well as several breadboard experiments that put these theories to use!

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April 18 2012

23:59

How-To: Indestructible, Floating LED Lanterns

Indestructible LED from MAKE Volume 30

Steve Hoefer likes to wander the aisles of the hardware store in his spare time, always on the lookout for that something something that strikes his fancy. He may not need it for a current project, but it’s bound to come in handy sometime. When he spotted some curious PVC caps and plugs that fit together into little airtight pods, he didn’t know they’d end up on the pages of MAKE Volume 30 as the basis for his Indestructible LED Lanterns project.

From his intro:

The result: simple, rugged, floating LED lanterns that glow for days. They’ve survived being submerged for a week, frozen, and laundered in the washing machine. I even hit one with the lawn mower, and it still works. When they get dirty, just hose them off.

Just in time for summer gatherings (and mischief), you can whip up a set of these lanterns in no time. Check out Steve’s how-to on page 132 of Volume 30, and right here on Make: Projects.

Look for Volume 30, hitting newsstands on April 24. Or, if you’re a subscriber (thanks! we love you!), it’s likely in your hands as we speak.

Frozen Indestructible LED from MAKE Volume 30

From the pages of MAKE Volume 30:

MAKE Volume 30Until recently, home automation was gimmicky, finicky, and user-hostile. But today, thanks to a new crop of devices and technology standards, home automation is useful, fun, and maker-friendly. In the special section of MAKE Volume 30, we’ll show you: how to flip any switch in your home with a smartphone, home automation without programming, controlling your HVAC with an Arduino, a webcam security system, and a wall-mounted Notification Alert Generator (NAG) that plays timely reminders as you walk by. Plus, you’ll build a Yakitori Grill, a robust R/C flying-wing airplane, sturdy furnishings from PVC, and more!

BUY OR SUBSCRIBE!


April 17 2012

16:00

Make: Projects – Concrete Candleholder

When we were brainstorming content for concrete month, our thoughts went immediately to Ray Alderman, aka Whamodyne, whose method for using a burned-out light bulb as a sacrificial mold for concrete is one of the most popular Instructables of all time.  We contacted Ray, who’s a mensch if ever there were one, and asked if he wanted to write something for us to go with the theme.   He agreed, and just now published this most excellent tutorial over on Make: Projects. Snip:

I’ve been wanting to try out some new ideas for simpler projects that can be done over a weekend, kind of a rainy day thing for parents with kids or just some friends hanging out together. This project uses anchoring cement as the concrete element. This cement is great for smaller projects like this, as it cures quickly (overnight to be safe) and can be mixed with water to the point where it is pourable.  For most small scale concrete work the water to dry mix ratio is extremely important and having too much or too little can mess up everything. For my concrete lightbulbs I measure it out to the gram and even then there is variations per batch. Anchoring cement is far more for giving and allows you to use kitchen measuring cups and spoons and semi-close is good enough. Having pourable cement means that it will fill your mold completely.

Ray’s work, as always, is very carefully planned and executed, and photographed and documented brilliantly.   This would be a great quick gift project, and his (literally) cookie-cutter method is easy to customize with whatever shape you want. [Thanks, Ray!]

Make: Projects — Concrete Tea Light Holder

In the Maker Shed:

The Best of Instructables Volume I

The Instructables staff, the editors of MAKE, and the Instructables community itself put together this collection of the best food, home and garden, technology, science, and crafts how-to’s from the site. The Best of Instructables includes full-color photographs, complete step-by-step instructions, and tips, tricks, and build techniques you won’t find anywhere else. Over 300 pages!


April 12 2012

16:15

The Concrete Lathe Project

The origin of mechanical precision is a classic chicken-and-egg problem: If you need a precision machine tool to make a precision machine tool, where do precision machine tools come from, in the first place? There’s the historical question—how did human beings go from sticks and stones to diamond-turning optical lathes capable of millionth-inch precision? And there’s the slightly humbler, more practical version of the same problem—if I don’t have access to a precision machine tool, for whatever reasons, how do I go about making one?

Like maker patron saint Dave Gingery, septuagenerian Palestine, Texas, resident Pat Delany has a passion for that practical problem. Inspired by a WWI-era improvement in the expedient manufacture of machine tools by Lucien Ingraham Yeomans, Pat has been working since 2002 to develop a metalworking lathe design that uses concrete parts cast in wooden molds to achieve high precision at a rock-bottom price. Like $100-$200. Generally, the method involves casting the bed with slightly oversize voids to mount the ways and other parts requiring precision alignment. The parts are then carefully aligned using screws or shims, and fixed in place by pouring low-melting type metal into the extra space.

Pat’s current design lives on Make: Projects, and you can check it out at the link below. [Thanks, Pat!]

The Multimachine – $150, 12″ Swing, Metal Lathe/Mill/Drill

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April 06 2012

17:30

Flex Your Brain Muscle With Game Show Buttons

Welcome back to Weekend Projects, fun, mostly beginner-friendly electronics projects you can make in a weekend! Throughout the year, every other week, we’ll introduce a new project for those either looking to get started learning electronics or slightly more advanced projects to build upon what you know. For example, last year, we explored circuit bending (Add Volume, Jack), AM/FM radio (Aircraft Band Receiver), and even touched on cybernetics (555 Timer Ball Whacker). Our big hit was the Light Theremin project, which dozens of users built variations of, from touch-sensitive to motor-driving theremins, using breadboards, Snap Circuits, even “Manhattan-style” circuit design.

This year, we’ll begin with Game Show Buttons, a moderately involved circuit that’s easy to build and understand – no soldering required, so all that’s needed is to drop components in place on a 6″ modular IC breadboard. More on this circuit and a video after the jump!


Challenge your friends to rounds of geeky jeopardy with Game Show Buttons, a two-person quiz circuit built using the legendary 555 timer and a Quad 2-input OR gate IC (we recommend the 74HC32). Along with momentary push buttons and corresponding LEDs (and some resistors and capacitors thrown in for good measure), the first player who thinks they know the answer and pushes his or her button will turn the circuit on, locking out the other player.

This circuit is built using an OR logic gate, which as the name implies is true (on) if either input A or input B is true. The OR is one of seven common types of logic gates, the others being AND, NAND, NOR, XOR, XNOR, and NOT (or as most call it, an Inverter). Watch the video below to see the circuit being built and operated. If you build this project or a variation of it, be sure to send us an email with pictures of your build!

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March 30 2012

01:00

How-To: Extract and Use Squid Ink

Extracting Squid Ink

On the tail (or rather tentacle) end of Natural Materials month here on Makezine, we couldn’t leave the mighty squid out of the mix. Instructables’ own Christy Canida shared her easy technique for extracting squid ink and using it for printing or cooking in CRAFT Volume 04, and we’ve just made it available for you on Make: Projects. Once you’ve extracted the ink, check out the recipe for tasty squid ink risotto or try using the ink to make some linoleum block prints.

Squid Ink Risotto

Printing with Squid Ink


March 29 2012

00:00

How-To: Carve a Stone Bowl

Heirloom Technology Stone Bowl MAKE Volume 24

Want to make a gift to eternity? Nothing says forever quite like a handmade stone bowl. Maker extraordinaire Tim Anderson writes our Heirloom Technology column each issue of MAKE, and for Volume 24, he shared his technique for carving a stone bowl. Head over to Make: Projects for the full tutorial. As Anderson notes, “Fortunately, tools with diamond-studded cutters have become cheap and abundant. They make stone carving amazingly fast and easy. The same techniques seen here can of course be used to make any sort of stone objects you desire. My bowl is heavy and shallow because I plan to use it for a mortar to make nut butter. And I want it to last forever.” What kind of bowl will you make?

Heirloom Technology Stone Bowl MAKE Volume 24

Heirloom Technology Stone Bowl MAKE Volume 24


March 08 2012

01:09

Simple Shop Vac to Hovercraft Mod

Hovercraft Shop Vac from MAKE Volume 29

Shop Vacs are essential in the workshop, but sometimes the casters seem to have a mind of their own. How about using the vacuum’s discharge air to make it obediently float behind you? That’s exactly what maker Bill Wells did, and his how-to appears on the pages of MAKE Volume 29. Bill essentially took off the wheels, attached the vacuum to a hover deck made of MDF, installed an additional hover hose to direct the discharge air, and added a hover skirt made from old exercise mat foam. Check out the full mod on Make: Projects. Build one and never be annoyed with those casters again.

Hovercraft Shop Vac Illustration: MAKE Volume 29

Hovercraft Shop Vac from MAKE Volume 29

From the pages of MAKE Volume 29:

We have the technology (to quote The Six Million Dollar Man), but commercial tools for exploring, assisting, and augmenting our bodies really can approach a price tag of $6 million. Medical and assistive tech manufacturers must pay not just for R&D, but for expensive clinical trials, regulatory compliance, and liability — and doesn’t help with low pricing that these devices are typically paid for through insurance, rather than purchased directly. But many gadgets that restore people’s abilities or enable new “superpowers” are surprisingly easy to make, and for tiny fractions of the costs of off-the-shelf equivalents. MAKE Volume 29, the “DIY Superhuman” issue, explains how.

BUY OR SUBSCRIBE!


March 05 2012

21:00

Building the MakerGear Mosaic 3D Printer Part VIII: The First Print

Due to popular demand, I’ve decided to take my MakerGear Mosaic assembly guide one step further, past the physical construction of the robot, and cover the process of getting through the first print.

I’ve now completely built two hobby-class CNC tools, from kits, and assisted in the construction of two more. And in my experience, it seems like getting the robot built is at best half the work of getting to the first complete job. Once you have the hardware ready to go, the number of options for your setup expands quite rapidly depending on the type of computer you’re using, its operating system, and the CAD, CAM, and host software packages you choose. I dedicated an old laptop to my printer, running Windows XP SP3, and am using a software toolchain consisting of SketchUp, Slic3r, and Pronterface. This is the most basic, user-friendly setup I can think of. But your mileage, as they say, may vary.

Traditionally, the first print off of a RepRap is supposed to be a shot glass, and the traditional file is minimug.stl. The original minimug file is available on the RepRap wiki, but for whatever reasons it is rotated at an unprintable angle, which is inconvenient for beginners. I have rotated it upright, centered it on the X and Y axes, and set its lower extremity at Z=0 and reposted it on Thingiverse.

What you test your shot glass with, of course, is entirely up to you. Personally, I’ve found Glenfiddich Solera Reserve to be an excellent choice. Its viscosity is lower than that of water, and thus makes for a better test of the integrity of your printed shot glass. And it’s easily disposed of when the test is complete.

The MakerGear Mosaic 3D Printer – Part VIII: The First Print

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February 27 2012

21:00

Make: Projects – Invisible Glass Photography

I wanted an unusual shot to show off the results from my recent soda can label embossing project, and had some success using this unusual method.

Clockwise from upper left: Glass in air, glass in oil, color-corrected image, final image with background touch-ups and lens correction.

There is a classic physics demonstration, sometimes disguised as a bit of stage magic, in which pieces of glass are made to disappear by immersion in a liquid that has the same refractive index as the glass itself.

I had a Pyrex glass beaker of about the diameter of the spiral I wanted, and I decided to experiment with the oil method for making the beaker invisible to get the shot. It’s a bit messy, and there are some things I’ll do differently next time, but it works. Check out the details, below.

Technique: Invisible Glass Photography

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February 24 2012

02:19

Build the Eyeboard Open Source Eye-Tracking Project

Eyeboard Eye Tracking from MAKE Volume 29

When 18-year-old Honduran maker Luis Cruz met a quadriplegic high school classmate and learned about the challenges he and other folks with disabilities face in the light of expensive assistive communication technologies, he was inspired to devise a solution. What Luis came up with is the Eyeboard: an inexpensive yet reliable human-computer interface that detects eye movements using electrooculography (EOG), a biomedical technique based on picking up signals from electrodes placed around the eyes, which in this case enables users who can’t manipulate a mouse or trackpad to move a cursor on a screen. Luis wrote about his project in an eye tracking feature on the pages of MAKE Volume 29, alongside Zach Lieberman’s EyeWriter project. Here is Luis’ article on the Eyeboard design and development:

The eyeball generates a voltage of 0.4mV–1.0mV (millivolts) between its cornea in front and retina in back. If you attach electrodes on opposite sides of the eye, they’ll pick up some of this voltage, depending on where the eyeball is pointing. Looking straight ahead, with the cornea and retina equidistant between the electrodes, there will be no voltage. But with the eyeball angled to one side, you can measure a microvolt-level signal between the
electrodes nearer the cornea and the one opposite. EOG can track both horizontal and vertical movements, but horizontal is easier and more useful. My system, like many others, only tracks horizontal using 3 electrodes: one right next to each eye,and the ground electrode centered on the bridge of the nose or forehead.

A processor chip or even an oscilloscope cannot detect such small voltages, so the EOG system must amplify them, while also filtering out any noise from nearby electrical devices and wiring. You can see the circuit I built to accomplish this, along with step-by-step instructions for building my EOG system and programming its microcontroller chip, at makeprojects.com.

To amplify the signal initially, I use an INA118 instrumentation amplifier chip configured with a 100Ω resistor between pins 1 and 8, which gives it a gain of 501. The INA118 chip’s high CMRR (common-mode rejection ratio) of 110dB eliminates common signals that go into both inputs, which removes some noise at the start of the signal path.

Noise from electrode circuits tends to come at high frequencies, so mine uses 2 passive low-pass filters in sequence, to reduce this noise above their cutoff frequency of around 16Hz. With the circuit I used, the formula for the cutoff is 1 /2πRC, where R is resistance and C is capacitance, so with a 100kΩ resistor and a 0.1µF cap, this comes out to 15.9Hz, which is fine; eye movements aren’t so fast that filtering cuts out anything important.

Finally, a capacitor zeroes the signal by removing the DC offset added by the resting potential between the eyes, and a voltage follower circuit lets you connect a higher source impedance device than the EOG output’s impedance, which is useful to connect an oscilloscope or multimeter for troubleshooting. To power the system, I use two 7805 voltage regulators wired in a trick way to supply the circuit with +5V, –5V, and ground (0V), eliminating the need for a dual power supply.

To process the amplified signal when the eyes move horizontally, I feed it into the analog-digital converter pin of an AT-mega328P microcontroller that’s programmed to send the data to a computer via serial port. A Python script on the computer then sends the data to a C++ applet I wrote, which lets the user spell out messages. Looking to the left scrolls down through letters, and looking to the right selects them. To make wearing the electrodes more comfortable, I mounted them to some glasses modded with a headband and super glue. I’ve built several prototypes of these EOG glasses with good results.

I’m still improving this EOG system, including looking for ways to make it more comfortable to wear. I’m pleased to have developed a system for less than $200 that enables disabled people, like my classmate, to communicate, when commercial versions of the same cost a minimum of $10,000. I’d also like to create inexpensive EOG-interface systems for other applications, such as controlling a wheelchair or a television. I just graduated from high school, and what I need most of all in order to pursue these ideas is a scholarship, sponsor, or other funding source so that I can study electrical engineering in the United States.

Here’s the Reuters coverage of Luis’ project from December 2011:

Build your own Eyeboard by following the instructions Luis shared on Make: Projects.

From the pages of MAKE Volume 29:

We have the technology (to quote The Six Million Dollar Man), but commercial tools for exploring, assisting, and augmenting our bodies really can approach a price tag of $6 million. Medical and assistive tech manufacturers must pay not just for R&D, but for expensive clinical trials, regulatory compliance, and liability — and doesn’t help with low pricing that these devices are typically paid for through insurance, rather than purchased directly. But many gadgets that restore people’s abilities or enable new “superpowers” are surprisingly easy to make, and for tiny fractions of the costs of off-the-shelf equivalents. MAKE Volume 29, the “DIY Superhuman” issue, explains how.

BUY OR SUBSCRIBE!


February 23 2012

23:43

Make: Projects – Custom-Shaped Frameless Eyeglasses

Here is a process that would not have occurred to me. Make: Projects user Kiers knew enough about the machines used by eyeglass lens makers to know that they use a “dummy lens” template as a pattern to cut the outer profile of a lens. He found an accommodating online optician willing to use a customer-provided pattern to make frameless glasses, which allowed him to design a lens shape to complement his own face in software and laser-cut a custom pattern.

More:


01:11

Rock Out Hands Free with Air Guitar Hero

Air Guitar Hero Project from MAKE Volume 29

Biomechanical engineer Robert Armiger and surgical roboticist Carol Reiley, both of Johns Hopkins University, created Air Guitar Hero as a fun rehabilitation exercise for people with amputations. The original version they made was a bit costly, but they wrote up a less expensive DIY version, and shared their build instructions with us on the pages of MAKE Volume 29. Now we’ve shared the full how-to on Make: Projects. Whether you intend to build your own or use the concepts to build something entirely different, the info is freely available for you to play with.

How does it work?

When a muscle contracts or flexes, it produces electrical activity. While faint (in the millivolt range), these signals can be detected by placing electrode sensors on the skin. The technology to measure, evaluate, and process muscular electricity is called electromyography (EMG). Air Guitar Hero uses EMG to send signals to the Wii console to control the game. But since the electrical signal generated by twiddling your fingers is very weak, additional computation must be performed to generate reliably accurate commands. The system uses pattern recognition algorithms to identify patterns in the EMG signals and decide which colored button to activate. The algorithms require training data to provide examples of what signal characteristics to look for. First, you must correctly play on-screen notes with the guitar while the electrodes record your EMG signals. Next, the recorded data is used to train a model for recognition the next time you make those movement patterns. Third, practice makes perfect! Playing this type of video game can be useful for building muscle tone and dexterity.

You play air guitar, moving your (A) 4 fingers corresponding to the first 4 “note” buttons on the Guitar Hero controller. (B) Electrodes on your arm detect tiny electrical signals from the muscles that move your fingers. These (C) EMG signals are boosted by (D) amplifiers, each on their own channel. The amplified signals are gathered by the (E) data acquisition board, which sends them on to the (F) laptop computer. The (G) USB video capture device pulls the Guitar Hero video from the (H) Wii video game console into the computer, for purposes of training the software. The (I) Air Guitar Hero software interprets the mixture of EMG signals as one of the 4 button-pressing motions, then sends the corresponding button command over to the (J) hacked GH controller which relays it to the Wii. It sends the Strum command automatically when you hit the note. You’re rocking out!

Here’s a video of Iraq war veteran amputee and Open Prosthetics Project founder Jon Kuniholm demoing the Air Guitar Hero:

From the pages of MAKE Volume 29:

We have the technology (to quote The Six Million Dollar Man), but commercial tools for exploring, assisting, and augmenting our bodies really can approach a price tag of $6 million. Medical and assistive tech manufacturers must pay not just for R&D, but for expensive clinical trials, regulatory compliance, and liability — and doesn’t help with low pricing that these devices are typically paid for through insurance, rather than purchased directly. But many gadgets that restore people’s abilities or enable new “superpowers” are surprisingly easy to make, and for tiny fractions of the costs of off-the-shelf equivalents. MAKE Volume 29, the “DIY Superhuman” issue, explains how.

BUY OR SUBSCRIBE!


February 10 2012

01:51

Share Your Build with 10,000 Makers

Make: Projects Homepage

Wanna share your project builds with thousands of like-minded folks? We’re thrilled to announce that we officially have 10,000 maker community members of all stripes on Make: Projects, our how-to wiki! We launched Make: Projects a little over a year and a half ago as a way to share projects from previous issues of MAKE and CRAFT, and to give our community a place to share their own builds. We now have 960 awesome projects to browse in topics as diverse as the skills and interests of our community.

One of the first community-contributed projects we saw was the Penny Countertop by Shane Selman and Michael Reilly of Artifacture Studios, and their project continues to be one of the most popular on the site, with around 280K views. Not only is it a cool, useful project, but their how-to is well written with great pictures, and they’ve been really active in helping folks troubleshoot their own builds.

The wiki format invites folks to help improve projects on the site, and all fields are editable. It’s been wonderful watching makers help one another solve problems and fine-tune builds. One amazing community member is Martin Schmidt, who has single-handedly made grammatical edits to a whopping 118 projects! When I first saw his edits and sent him a thank you note, he replied: “The maker movement is an exciting one to me and I’m glad to be able to contribute something useful, however small.” Thanks so much, Martin — we’re excited to meet and host you at this year’s Maker Faire Bay Area!

We’ve gotten great feedback and continue to improve the site all the time. If you haven’t checked it out yet, take a test drive and let us know what you think! And if you want to pitch your project ideas for MAKE magazine, there’s no better way than to share your build on Make: Projects.

In case you were wondering, our 10,000th maker is Bill Selberis. We’ll be sending him a Maker’s Notebook.

A big high five to everyone who has joined the community and shared their knowledge. Thank you for helping to build Make: Projects into a valuable resource for all makers! Next up: Who will enter the 1000th project?


January 27 2012

16:00

In the Maker Shed: Teleclaw – Telerobotic Gripper Kit

Need a hand? Build your own with the Telerobotic Gripper Kit from the Maker Shed! This kit includes everything you need to make the Teleclaw featured in MAKE: Volume 27, right down to the batteries. Assemble the kit and attach the Teleclaw to your robot, rover, or anywhere else you could use a grip. The pre-programmed Picaxe microcontroller interprets commands from the IR remote to make the gripper open and close. Have a look at the Make: Project build for more information and directions.

 

 


January 16 2012

14:00

Make: Projects – Stationary Drumcycle

Mounting a digital drum controller on an exercise bike may seem silly, at first, but personally I consider it one of the best things I’ve ever done for myself. It makes what used to a be a tedious chore into something joyous—more like dancing or marching in a drum line than “working out.”

To use the machine, start the click track at a comfortable riding tempo (which for me is about 120 bpm), and operate the pedals in time to the beat. Then start using your hands, without losing time with your feet. The mental problem of coordinating all four limbs to make interesting rhythms is completely absorbing, and the time flies by. Since installing the drumpads, I’ll often keep riding long past my planned exercise period because I’m enjoying working out whatever pattern I’m developing so much.

As your strength, wind, and coordination develops, you can increase the challenge by adjusting the bike’s resistance setting, the speed of the click track, and the complexity of the rhythms played with your hands, respectively. You can plug in an amp and shake the ground with your sound, or plug in a set of headphones and work out in the middle of the night without disturbing family members or housemates. It’s great for your Rock Band chops, too!

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January 06 2012

19:30

Beating Heart Headband (video)

In this episode of Becky’s Workshop, learn to make a headband that glows with your heart beat. First construct a stretchy headband from brocade and grosgrain ribbon, then embed the circuit boards and clip the sensor to your ear. You can find the Beating Heart Headband in MAKE v29, and see the complete how-to on Make: Projects.

Three key components of this project are available in the Maker Shed:

Subscribe to the CRAFT Podcast in iTunes, download the m4v video directly, or watch it on YouTube or Vimeo. Thanks to Britex Fabrics for the ribbon.

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02:08

Make an Arduino-Controlled R/C Lawn Mower

Lawnbot400 from MAKE Volume 22

Alabama-based maker J.D. Warren used to hate mowing his lawn, so he put his resourcefulness to work and came up with a solution, which he calls the Lawnbot400:

I started thinking, what if I could mow the grass from the back deck, or even the computer? To handle my 1-acre backyard’s hills, dips, and rocks, an R/C lawn mower would have to be very sturdy, be controllable from a good distance, and have enough battery power to last several hours. I built the Lawnbot400 to meet these criteria.

Basically, if you took the wheels and handlebar off any old gas-powered push mower, bolted it into a sturdy metal frame with 2 electric wheelchair motors, and added the electronics needed to make it move, you’d have the Lawnbot400. I control mine with a standard hobby R/C transmitter and receiver, but with just a few modifications it could be made autonomous.

J.D. shared his build instructions with us on the pages of MAKE Volume 22, the Remote Control issue. We recently shared his project on Make: Projects, where you can see the full how-to, materials list, full-sized images, and collaborate. Check it out. Even if you’re in deep freeze this time of year where you live, this is a fun project to get started in your garage while you’re waiting for your lawn to thaw.

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